Jul
6
What Do Peptides In Cosmetics Do?
Filed Under Beauty, Health, Medical, Skincare | 2 Comments
Peptides, in science, refer to short chains of amino acids (the basic component of proteins). A few peptides linked together will form a protein. Proteins are essential to life, and in skin they are essential for the formation of the epidermis, and what the hair, skin, nails, and muscles are made up of. So where do peptides come into the picture in our cosmetics?
HOW PEPTIDES IN COSMETICS WORK, & EVIDENCE FOR ITS EFFICACY
Peptides are found in many cosmetics, especially those that aim to reduce wrinkles. Wrinkles are formed by the breakdown and reduction in production of collagen, and are accelerated by age and sun exposure. Collagen is a type of protein found in the skin, and production of new collagen to replenish the destroyed collagen diminishes with age. And since proteins are made up of peptides, by introducing peptides (think of them as “mini-proteins”) to your skin via your creams, it replenishes the collagen and fills up your wrinkles in the following ways:
- Signal Peptides. Peptides stimulate you skin to make more collagen. When collagen is broken down, it becomes many peptides. These peptides signal to the skin that collagen has been lost and more needs to be produced to replace it. By applying peptide cream onto your face, it mimics these broken down collagen, and basically tricks your skin into thinking it should be producing more collagen. The skin has reduced fine wrinkles and appears firmer. In a study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, a 12 week, double blind, split face, left -right randomised controlled trial of 93 Caucasian women aged 33-55, the signal peptides showed significant improvement in wrinkles and fine lines. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide, or Matrixyl, is the most popular signal peptide in cosmetics use.
- Carrier Peptides. Peptides transport important trace elements into the skin to aid healing and the enzymatic processes going on under the kin. One of the most important elements is copper, which enhances wound healing, enzymatic processes and angiogenesis (vessels production). As peptides penetrate through the skin (protein molecules are too large to be absorbed by the skin), it attracts copper along with it. Copper peptides are essential for skin formation, promoting collagen production as well as the added benefit of acting as an anti-oxidant. It is also sometimes found in anit-cellulite products for its anti-inflammatory effects. Trials that have used copper-peptides in cosmeceuticals (Leyden JJ, Skin care benefits of copper peptides containing facial cream, presented at the American Academy of Dermatology 60th Annual Meeting 2008) have shown effectiveness in decreasing the appearance of fine lines as well as an increase in skin density and thickness.
- Neurotransmitter Affecting Peptides. Peptides relax your facial muscles, decreasing the lines on the face. This is similar to the action of botox, without the risk of dissemination or paralysis. Research carried out by drug companies marketing Leuphasyl (Lipotec SA), and Syn-ake (Pentapharm) conclude that their products do show efficacy in reducing neurotrasnmitter release, muscle contraction and hence decrease in wrinkling. However, these are drug company sponsored studies, so I’d be wary of this claim and wait till there are reliable independent trials conducted before banking on peptides to work in this manner or to use it as a replacement for Botox. Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, or Argireline is a common neuropeptide in cosmetics.
A good read for the biology and biochemistry behind peptides in cosmetics production can be found here. An important point of peptides is that they need to be small enough to be absorbed by the skin, yet stable enough to have maximum benefit.
Peptides use in anti-aging products came about as a side benefit in the research for wound healing. Yeast was perviously used to enhance wound healing, and researchers realized the proteins extracted from yeast had not only encouraged wound healing, it increased collagen production as well. Since then, the derived peptides were identified, tested and put into cosmetics. They were marketed as the new anti-aging treatment as the increased collagen would replace the destroyed collagen in the skin and reduce wrinkles.
POPULAR PEPTIDES SKINCARE PRODUCTS AVAILABLE
Strivectin SD. The active ingredient is palmitoyl pentapeptide.
Olay Regenerist Micro Sculpting Cream
Neutrogena Visibly Firm Face Lotion
Dr Perricone Neuropeptide Facial Cream
CONCLUSION
Peptides are common ingredients used in skin care products nowadays, especially in anti-wrinkle formulations. They appear to be effective in combating the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
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