Jan
27
Understand Your Moisturizer
Filed Under Beauty Tips, Ingredients, Skincare
After moving to Canada in the middle of winter from tropical Asia, it was especially hard on my already dry skin. Previously I could be lazy with the high humidity of near 100% in sunny Singapore. However in cold Calgary where the daily temperature fluctuates between negative 10 to negative 30 in winter, my skin would definitely crack and weep if I omitted any moisturizer-even if it was for half a day. It took a consistent moisturizing regime, gloves and a humidifier to break the cycle of painful skin. It also left me wondering how moisturizers work and what was the essence that made some more effective than others?
‘Moisturizer’ is commonly used to describe a product that increases the water content of the skin. However, a moisturizer may not necessarily just function to restore water into the skin. It may also act as a barrier, slowing the evaporation of water in the skin and hence improving hydration of the skin. This property is particularly useful in dry, aging skin.
The condition of the epidermal layer of the skin is the key factor which determines hydration of the skin. The components which are essential are: 1) the integrity of the skin as a barrier, 2) the fat present in the layer (acting as a barrier, and also as the entry point for soluble substances) , 3) the natural moisturizing process (consisting of amino acids, body salts and electrolytes, and related to external humidity) , and 4) the exfoliation process (slowed down in dry external conditions and resulting in the signs of dry skin).
Thus, moisturizers may work in many ways: restoring/repairing the barrier, retaining/increasing the skin’s water content, reducing water loss from teh skin surface, restoring/enhancing the fat layer’s capability to attract, hold and redistribute water, and to maintaining skin integrity and appearance.
Moisturizers perform these functions by acting as humectants, emollients, and occlusives.
Emollients:
Containing liquids and oils, this catagory of moisturizers enhances the barrier function, repairs the cracks and improves permeability of ingredients in the moisturizer.
Examples of the active ingredients in emollients include stearic, linoleic, linolenic, oleic, and lauric acids.
Occlusives:
As its name suggests, this group of moisturizers create a ‘waterproof’ layer to form a barrier over the skin hence reducing water loss from the skin surface. These moisturizers work best on dampened skin (so the instructions to put the moisturizer after your shower). The limitations of using occlusives include the odour, potential allergenicity, and discomfort from the greasy feel.
Examples of active ingredients in occlusives are petroleum jelly (in a minimum concentration of 5%, and the classic moisturizer), alnolin, mineral oil and silicones.
Humectants:
Humectants act by attracting water into the skin from both internally and from the external environment (in humid conditions). Many also have emollient activity. However, it is often combined with an occlusive, as the water drawn up into the epidermis may be lost to the environemnt, negating its moisturizing effect.
Examples of active ingredients in humectants are glycerol, honey, urea, alpha-hydroxy acids.
Currently, most moisturizers promoted on the market are a combination of all 3 above catagories in varying concentrations and formulations. Some products have added on active ingredients which are promoted to have skin rejuvenating, anti-aging, skin-firming, anticellulite, and sun-protectant properties.
The majority of products are in the form of lotions (oil-in-water emulsions) or creams (water-in-oil emulsions). There are other more complicated emulsions (e.g., oil-in-water-in-oil, oleaginous mixtures, serums, gels, sprays, and milks) are used to deliver and stabilize some active ingredients. However, this is up to the company producing the product and consumer feedback. For example, low pH and sensory irritation will decrease compliance, while emollients with its smooth consistency increases consumer satisfaction
Lotions tend to be thinner and are commonly preferred for daytime facial use. The typical components include propylene glycol, mineral oil, and water.
Creams are generally made with heavier lipids, are often applied at night, and are typically composed of petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oil, and water.
Site Specific Moisturizers;
Face moisturizers are specially formulated to fight the environmental insults like cold, dry weather and sun exposure. Look for face moisturizers with non-greasy, noncomedogenic emollients. Many add on other ingredients to enhance the skin aesthetics, sun protectants and anti-shine properties. For anti-aging and photoaged skin, look for alpha hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acid), and retinol and its derivatives.
Hand and body moisturizers are targeted at the prevention and treatment of dry skin. Additional ingredients for anti-cellulite, firming and anti-aging are sometimes added as well.
After understanding this, and knowing the weather conditions you live and work in, you can choose the moisturizer that can fit your lifestyle by looking at the active ingredients of the product. It may not be so simple as many products contain a mix of ingredients, but with the above guide, it may help your choice and understanding of the product.
So next time you go shopping for your moisturizer, look at the ingredients and know what you’re putting on your skin.
References:
- Medscape
- Madison KC. Barrier function of the skin: “la raison d’etre” of the epidermis. J Invest Dermatol 121(2):231-41 (2003 Aug).
- Rawlings AV, Canestrari DA, Dobkowski B. Moisturizer technology versus clinical performance. Dermatol Ther 17 Suppl 1:49-56 (2004).
- Glaser DA, Rogers C. Topical and systemic therapies for the aging face. Facial Plast Surg Clin North Am 9(2):189-96 (2001 May).
- Glaser DA. Anti-aging products and cosmeceuticals. Facial Plast Surg Clin North Am 12(3):363-72 (2004 Aug).
- Draelos ZD. Therapeutic moisturizers. Dermatol Clin 18(4):597-607 (2000 Oct).
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