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Jan

30

Top Anti-Aging Trends for 2009

Filed Under Press Release | 4 Comments

A new year means new goals and new directions for all. Anti-aging medicine is one of the fastest growing fields, and you can expect it to have exciting times to come! Here’s the press release from the International Association for Physicians in Aesthetic Medicine on the 27th Jan 2009:

The International Association for Physicians in Aesthetic Medicine (IAPAM), the leading international organization of physicians practicing aesthetic medicine, sees the following trends in anti-aging for 2009. These trends were compiled through consultation with leading aesthetic medicine physicians from around the world and in consultation with the medical advisory board of the IAPAM.

1. Minimally invasive procedures will significantly outperform surgical options

Minimally-invasive anti-aging procedures will continue to secure the majority of the aesthetic medical procedures’ market over more invasive, expensive surgical offerings.

The public will choose these less expensive and less risky procedures over surgeries. People generally desire to look 10 years younger, and minimally-invasive procedures can achieve this desired outcome. “During hard economic times, men and women look to non-invasive cosmetic treatments such as Botox Cosmetic, Dermal Fillers and Skin Rejuvenation as a means to feel and look better about themselves physically and emotionally,” says Dr. Alexander Ataii of Laser Clinque in San Diego.

Moreover, with wrinkle reduction treatments using Botox Cosmetic® and dermal fillers increasing in popularity, new players will emerge in this arena. Botox® will continue to be the most popular product, but it’s anticipated that Medicis will release a competitor, Reloxin®, sometime in 2009.

Finally, a new generation of minimally-invasive liposuction procedures, resulting in less pain to the patient and little or no downtime, will evolve and become more effective. Laser and ultrasound-based equipment will help physicians remove localized fat instead of requiring patients to entertain aggressive liposuction procedures. New entrants into this arena include laserlipolysis (SmartLipo, Cynosure), and focused ultrasound for body sculpting (LipoSonix, Ultrashape), which is awaiting FDA approval. A third fat-reduction option for consideration, Cryoliplysis (Zeltiq Aesthetics), involves non-invasive cooling of fat cells to induce lipolysis.

Therefore, minimally-invasive body sculpting and liposuction procedures will continue to be a hot trend, with many new entrants entering the US market this year. The IAPAM also expects to see some new non-invasive procedures become widely available, like Ultrashape and SonoSculpt, which are currently being used in other countries.

2. The “eyes” have it!

Building upon the aforementioned popularity of minimally-invasive procedures, “EyeJuvenation” will become an increasingly popular offering among physicians. Coupled with the recent FDA approval of products such as Allergan’s Latisse®, which supports the growth of fuller, darker eyelashes, practitioners will offer a suite of services and products focusing specifically on the eye, including Botox Cosmetic® for treatment of crows-feet and deep wrinkles between the brows, coupled with the use of dermal fillers such as Juvederm®, Restylane® to fill deeper hollows below and around the eyes.

3. Cosmeceutical market will continue to grow

Latisse in only one of the many new cosmeceuticals likely to hit the market in 2009. In a report published in October 2008 by the Freedonia Group, “the US Cosmeceuticals Market will increase by 7.2 % per year to $8.2 billion in 2012, propelled by a stream of new and technologically advanced product introductions offering age-defying and other appearance enhancing benefits for an aging population. The rapid growth of the cosmeceutical market will continue to be based on a combination of science and astute marketing.”

Dr Jennifer Linder, MD, board certified dermatologist and advisory board member of the International Association for Physicians in Aesthetic Medicine, also comments that, within the cosmeceutical industry, “stem cell technology will be utilized for anti-aging topical products. Up until now stem cells have been used in medicine to generate new cell growth in wounds and burns. This same thought process is now being researched for improving the appearance of mature skin. Stem cells never die so the cellular proliferation they can provide would be incredible. By generating healthy cells in aging skin, products can potentially reverse some of the damage accrued over the years.”

Finally, Dr. Linder notes that “DNA-based lines are also being marketed. These lines claim to actually repair the DNA damage caused by UV, free radicals and inflammation.” However, Dr. Linder concedes that further study into these product lines is needed.

4. From caffeine to peptides, over-the-counter topical products will include innovative ingredients

Caffeine will burst onto the beauty-product market as a marquee ingredient in many drugstore cosmetics. While Jennifer Linder cautions that, “the science is still lacking to substantiate its long-term effects”, many researchers suggest that caffeine “reduces eye puffiness,” “increases micro-circulation,” which in turn carries away excess fluids from the skin, reduces the appearance of cellulite, and contributes to overall cell renewal.

Dr. Linder identifies that another pre-eminent ingredient in topical products will be peptides. “Peptides will continue to be some of the most effective topical ingredients available. New peptides, such as neuropeptides, are being developed and are thought to possibly contribute to a feeling of well-being. Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial peptides are also becoming available and may potentially help in the treatment of adult acne and sensitive skin conditions. Anti-aging peptides continue to be at the forefront of age control product development, with new types being developed each year. More studies are needed in order for their benefits to be proven, but the market is sure to see more products containing different types of peptide technology in the future.” Indeed, products such as Jane Iredale’s Zap & Hide concealer contain the active acne-fighting peptide called Tego Policosanol. This coupled with topical antiseptics and anti-inflammatories such as tea tree leaf or lavender oils, or algae and other extracts, result in make-up that provides both medicinal healing to skin as well as cosmetic coverage.

On a final note regarding topical beauty products, Dr. Linder, anticipates that, “result-oriented weekly treatments are sure to gain popularity in the shadow of the current global economic crisis. Masks, serums and creams that are marketed to work, when applied once or twice per week, versus daily, will be appealing as they will last longer for the consumer.”

5. Anti-aging from the “inside-out”

Building upon the link between aging and diet, consumers are seeking treatments, both injestable and topical, to achieve better health through traditional dietary products. Peter Lam, in a January article in Skin Inc. Magazine, comments that, “the preventive strategies of anti-aging are being expanded and even exploited by the food industry with the promotion of nutraceuticals and antioxidants, such as the inclusion of botanicals and green tea in foods. Even the cosmetics industry has begun including these substances in skin care product formulations. The belief is that these ingredients can penetrate the skin topically in order to nourish and prevent skin conditions.”

Dr. Linder agrees that “antioxidants of all types continue to hold an important place in age control products. As the consumer becomes more aware of the benefits of internal and topical antioxidants, demand is increasing. Potent antioxidants such as resveratrol from grapes, goji berry extracts, turmeric root extract and acai extracts are being introduced to topical products to improve the health and appearance of aging skin by quenching free radicals.”

Finally, Dr. Linder identifies that probiotics are making their way from the grocery store to the cosmetic counter. “Several lines are introducing probiotic agents to skin care formulations. These companies claim to “soften, smooth and exfoliate your skin, giving it a fresh youthful appearance. Most available research only supports skin benefits when probiotics are taken internally, and even that is somewhat inconclusive and lacking. Clinical proof aside, more and more companies are introducing probiotic technology for topical use.”

6. Medical weight loss management “grows” in popularity

Globally, the World Health Organization estimated that in 2005, 400 million people were obese. Currently, 78 million Americans are classified as obese. This number is projected to increase to 700 million world-wide by the year 2015. Therein, with obesity continuing as such a universal epidemic, medical weight management will be offered by more and more physicians internationally. People are tired of yo-yo diets and special meals, and are looking for physicians to help them loose weight permanently. Therein, doctors are in a unique position to help clients with effective weight loss strategies, since they already have the trust of their patients.

Consistent with this anticipated market growth, the IAPAM is proactively working to develop a medical weight management program for 2009, that combines healthy lifestyle changes, exercise, and the latest medical weight management procedures, like laser-assisted liposuction,” says Jeff Russell, Executive-Director of the IAPAM.

7. Public place trust in physicians for aesthetic medical offerings

The IAPAM’s Aesthetic Medicine Consumer Study surveyed women across the U.S., ages 21-60 on their perception of various aesthetic medicine procedures. As an apparent reaction to the unregulated medical spa industry, 78% of women rated medical credentials as very important when choosing an aesthetic treatment provider. “The results clearly indicate most women are concerned about their safety when choosing aesthetic procedures, which is a huge opportunity for physicians who wish to expand their practice with aesthetic treatments,” says Jeff Russell.

Given this, the field of aesthetic medicine will see non-physician owned medical spas close at a very fast rate. “Many non-physician owned medical spas opened to take advantage of the profit potential, but soon realized the key to success is to have a physician-owner, who is on-site,” comments Russell.

Furthermore, expect to find the most common minimally-invasive procedures (Botox, dermal fillers, laser hair removal) at your current general practioner’s practice. More and more physicians are being expertly trained in the most common, minimally-invasive, procedures and they are in a position to offer these procedures in the convenience of their offices to their existing patient base.

 

Reference: 

International Association for Physicians in Aesthetic Medicine (IAPAM)

IAPAM Press Release

Jan

29

Canadian Cosmetics and Skincare Brands

Filed Under Beauty Products, Skincare | 1 Comment

Now that I’m in Canada, I’m eager to try out what Canadian brands have to offer. Hence I surfed around to see what are the available Canadian brands for makeup and skincare.

And some links to online Canadian beauty guides and shopping

Please feel free to let me know of any that I have missed so I can update the list for everyone’s benefit!

Jan

28

Gilt Groupe Invite

Filed Under Fashion | Leave a Comment

Just click on the link to join the Gilt Groupe, a leading online luxury brand site which does sample sales online! Get more for less! 

Click here to join.

Jan

28

Shapewear

Filed Under Beauty Tips, Fashion | 4 Comments

As any mommy would know, post pregnant tummys don’t get back into shape the way you like it to. Thank goodness for shapewear which acts like a corset (but softer and way more comfortable) to help hold it all in! After all, even if you’re not post partum, don’t you want a beautiful body to go with your beautiful face?

I had gotten my shapewear from Marks & Spencer, and it’s great that there are other places online to get shapewear like Victoria’s Secret, Jockey, Spanx, Lipo in a Box, Yummie Tummie, Sassybax and Flabuless. Any reviews on these products?

Jan

28

What's The Order?

Filed Under Beauty Tips, Skincare | Leave a Comment

When it comes to skincare, there are so many different products with different names and functions, it can be confusing when to use each one. Here’s a summary of the order of the products to slap onto your face:

DAY

  • Cleanser- wash off all the dirt and grime off your face, leaving it clean and let your skin breathe
  • Exfoliant- may omit cleanser if using an exfoliant. However, this is not for everyday use as it  becomes overly harsh on the skin, 
  • Toner- the jury is out on the use of a toner. 
  • Prescription medications- put them on a clean face for the deepest action.
  • Anti-oxidant serum
  • Eye cream- look for one containing anti-oxidants, SPF and a moisturizing humectant like glycerine or propylene glycol in your day cream.
  • Redness reliever- usually containing caffine and/or niacinamide.
  • Moisturizer- as it usually contains more oil, applying it last will actually avoid the problem of the above more water based products from sliding off, and it also helps lock in the above products.
  • Suncreen
  • Makeup Primer

NIGHT

  • Makeup remover if you have any makeup on
  • Prescription skin care/ Retinoids
  • Hydroquinone spot treatments
  • Peptide serum
  • Eye cream
  • Night cream

Reference: TotalBeauty.com

Jan

27

Understand Your Moisturizer

Filed Under Beauty Tips, Ingredients, Skincare | Leave a Comment

After moving to Canada in the middle of winter from tropical Asia, it was especially hard on my already dry skin.  Previously I could be lazy with the high humidity of near 100% in sunny Singapore. However in cold Calgary where the daily temperature fluctuates between negative 10 to negative 30 in winter,  my skin would definitely crack and weep if I omitted any moisturizer-even if it was for half a day. It took a consistent moisturizing regime, gloves and a humidifier to break the cycle of painful skin. It also left me wondering how moisturizers work and what was the essence that made some more effective than others?

‘Moisturizer’ is commonly used to describe a product that increases the water content of the skin. However, a moisturizer may not necessarily just function to restore water into the skin. It may also act as a barrier, slowing the evaporation of water in the skin and hence improving hydration of the skin. This property is particularly useful in dry, aging skin.

The condition of the epidermal layer of the skin is the key factor which determines hydration of the skin.  The components which are essential are: 1) the integrity of the skin as a barrier, 2) the fat present in the layer (acting as a barrier, and also as the entry point for soluble substances) , 3) the natural moisturizing process (consisting of amino acids, body salts and electrolytes, and related to external humidity) , and 4) the exfoliation process (slowed down in dry external conditions and resulting in the signs of dry skin).

Thus, moisturizers may work in many ways: restoring/repairing the barrier, retaining/increasing the skin’s water content, reducing water loss from teh skin surface, restoring/enhancing the fat layer’s capability to attract, hold and redistribute water, and to maintaining skin integrity and appearance.

Moisturizers perform these functions by acting as humectants, emollients, and occlusives.

Emollients:

Containing liquids and oils, this catagory of moisturizers enhances the barrier function, repairs the cracks and improves permeability of ingredients in the moisturizer.

Examples of the active ingredients in emollients include stearic, linoleic, linolenic, oleic, and lauric acids.

Occlusives:

As its name suggests, this group of moisturizers create a ‘waterproof’ layer to form a barrier over the skin hence reducing water loss from the skin surface. These moisturizers work best on dampened skin (so the instructions to put the moisturizer after your shower). The limitations of using occlusives include the odour, potential allergenicity, and discomfort from the greasy feel.

Examples of active ingredients in occlusives are petroleum jelly (in a minimum concentration of 5%, and the classic moisturizer), alnolin, mineral oil and silicones.

Humectants:

Humectants act by attracting water into the skin from both internally and from the external environment (in humid conditions). Many also have emollient activity. However, it is often combined with an occlusive, as the water drawn up into the epidermis may be lost to the environemnt, negating its moisturizing effect.

Examples of active ingredients in humectants are glycerol, honey, urea, alpha-hydroxy acids.

Currently, most moisturizers promoted on the market are a combination of all 3 above catagories in varying concentrations and formulations. Some products have added on active ingredients which are promoted to have skin rejuvenating, anti-aging, skin-firming, anticellulite, and sun-protectant properties.

The majority of products are in the form of lotions (oil-in-water emulsions) or creams (water-in-oil emulsions). There are other more complicated emulsions (e.g., oil-in-water-in-oil, oleaginous mixtures, serums, gels, sprays, and milks) are used to deliver and stabilize some active ingredients. However, this is up to the company producing the product and consumer feedback. For example, low pH and sensory irritation will decrease compliance, while emollients with its smooth consistency increases consumer satisfaction

Lotions tend to be thinner and are commonly preferred for daytime facial use. The typical components include propylene glycol, mineral oil, and water.

Creams are generally made with heavier lipids, are often applied at night, and are typically composed of petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oil, and water.

Site Specific Moisturizers;

Face moisturizers are specially formulated to fight the environmental insults like cold, dry weather and sun exposure. Look for face moisturizers with non-greasy, noncomedogenic emollients. Many add on other ingredients to enhance the skin aesthetics, sun protectants and anti-shine properties. For anti-aging and photoaged skin, look for alpha hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acid), and retinol and its derivatives.

Hand and body moisturizers are targeted at the prevention and treatment of dry skin. Additional ingredients for anti-cellulite, firming and anti-aging are sometimes added as well.

After understanding this, and knowing the weather conditions you live and work in, you can choose the moisturizer that can fit your lifestyle by looking at the active ingredients of the product. It may not be so simple as many products contain a mix of ingredients, but with the above guide, it may help your choice and understanding of the product.

So next time you go shopping for your moisturizer, look at the ingredients and know what you’re putting on your skin.

References:

  1. Medscape
  2. Madison KC. Barrier function of the skin: “la raison d’etre” of the epidermis. J Invest Dermatol 121(2):231-41 (2003 Aug).
  3. Rawlings AV, Canestrari DA, Dobkowski B. Moisturizer technology versus clinical performance. Dermatol Ther 17 Suppl 1:49-56 (2004).
  4. Glaser DA, Rogers C. Topical and systemic therapies for the aging face. Facial Plast Surg Clin North Am 9(2):189-96 (2001 May).
  5. Glaser DA. Anti-aging products and cosmeceuticals. Facial Plast Surg Clin North Am 12(3):363-72 (2004 Aug).
  6. Draelos ZD. Therapeutic moisturizers. Dermatol Clin 18(4):597-607 (2000 Oct).

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