Makeup Tips For Aging Skin

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As you age, you experience many things — puberty, pregnancy, menopause, pollution, sunlight, dry winters, humid summers, stress. Your aging skin experiences them too. And even if you take good care of your skin, life takes a toll on it.

But you can turn back the clock, at least a little, with makeup. By skillfully applying makeup, you can hide wrinkles, age spots, and sun damage and also play up your best features. Here are some tips from the professionals: makeup artists.

Hiding Fine Lines and Wrinkles

In trying to conceal fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes, lips, and forehead, many women make the mistake of accentuating them instead by overdoing makeup. Too much makeup settles and cakes into lines, making wrinkles more noticeable.

Prevention begins with a moisturizer. “After you wash your face in the morning, apply moisturizer while the skin is damp, which will plump it up and even it out, helping makeup glide on,” says Billy Lowe, celebrity hairstylist and beauty expert for television shows such as Extreme Makeover and TLC’s 10 Years Younger.

Don’t forget to moisturize around the eyes. “Start with a silicone-based eye serum that will gel to the concealer and prevent it from slipping,” says Lowe. And, he says, “Packing on the makeup to cover lines or dark circles will cause it to crepe and bring out creases.” To avoid a cakey look around the eyes, don’t use heavy concealers.

“Learn your bone structure and features of your face,” advises Bridget Winton, makeup instructor at the Bellus Academy of Beauty & Spa in San Diego. “Focus on your bone structure to lift the face. Give yourself a youthful look by using lighter and darker shades to make hard lines soft and soft lines hard.”

For a sagging chin, for example, work with a foundation that is one or two shades darker than your facial foundation. Cover the darker area with a translucent powder.

How to Brighten Aging Skin

A dull, gray complexion can be a sign of dehydrated skin, but skin also loses its rosy glow as it thins with age. While you work to replenish dry skin with moisturizers, you can also brighten color lost through thinning with lighter makeup.

Use warm colors to brighten the appearance of shallow, dull skin. Experts suggest using a foundation that is a half shade lighter than your skin tone.

To diminish dark circles under the eyes, apply foundation that’s a shade lighter than your facial foundation to the area. Top it with a concealer and then add a loose powder to set the makeup and hide the color difference.

Illuminators and bronzers can also add a sun-kissed glow, but don’t overdo it; a fake tan can add years to your face. Instead, blend the bronzer into your moisturizer or foundation and then apply it evenly to your face. Or use a loose powder just one or two shades darker than your skin tone.

To give skin a dewy look, Winton recommends spritzers and remoisturizing sprays to set makeup and add glisten.

Soften Your Colors

Ruby red may have been your signature lip color since your 20s, but as you mellow with age, so should your color palette. “You don’t want bright, vibrant colors that call attention to the eyes, lips, or cheeks because they will draw attention to damage and not blend with the skin,” says Winton. “You can still stay with the harmony of your hair and eye color, just do it with softer colors.”

Lowe says, “I’m a sucker for soft tones. I use them on everyone. I like neutrals and pastels and find they complement aging skin well.”

Around the eyes, black mascaras and eyeliners are appropriate if your hair color hasn’t grayed. When your hair color fades, so should your mascara; opt for a soft brown or gray.

Eyelashes also tend to lose their volume and thickness over time. A volumizing, defining mascara will plump them up. To make them even fuller, “apply a very fine layer of translucent powder to the lashes in between two coats of mascara,” says makeup artist and former model Jemma Kidd. Or consider having your lashes and brows tinted with semi-permanent color at your local hair salon.

Plump Lips

Thinning lips are another downside of aging skin. But a few tricks can make them look full again.

Choosing the right color for thinning lips is as important as how it is applied. Again, avoid strong colors like red. They can make lips appear even thinner, while peach and beige colors, lip glosses, and tawny liners make them appear fuller and more defined.

Liners can help complete the illusion of fuller lips. Draw just on the outside of the lips and fill in with color, but be careful not to make them appear too rigid. “Most people use the pencil to outline the lips first,” says Lowe. “This creates too much definition in the lining of the lip. Instead, use color first and then line the lip. It gives it a softer line that is still defined.”

Feathery lines also appear around lips as you age. To stop lipstick from bleeding into them, use matte lipsticks and lip liners. Kidd recommends mixing a good quality lip balm with your favorite lip color for a glossier or subtler look.

Prevent Further Skin Damage

Makeup can make a temporary difference in your appearance, but it’s most effective if you start with the best base possible — well-tended skin.

No matter how old you are, your skin still needs moisturizer and protection from the sun.

Makeup artists stress the importance of keeping the skin hydrated and clean, and warding off additional sun damage.

Exfoliate the skin every day, says Lowe: “Pollution builds up on your skin and will prevent moisture from getting into it. Exfoliation removes the build up and speeds up cellular turnover, bringing new, brighter cells to the surface.”

Apply moisturizer and sunscreens as a base each morning, and reapply sunscreen throughout the day. Make a point to wash makeup off every night and repair the day’s damage by applying heavier, nighttime moisturizers.

“You know the saying, ‘an ounce of prevention,’” says Lowe. “Take care of your skin at any age.”

Teens and Plastic Surgery: An Expert Interview With Michael F. McGuire, MD, President-Elect of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons

Editor’s Note:

Having cosmetic surgery is a growing practice among teens. There is general debate about the appropriateness of cosmetic surgery in teens and whether they truly understand the risks involved. Medscape’s Pippa Wysong spoke with Michael F. McGuire, MD, President-Elect of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS). He was a member of the team that authored the ASPS guidelines on cosmetic surgery in teens. Dr. McGuire is Associate Clinical Professor of Surgery at the David Geffen School of Medicine at University of California at Los Angeles (UCLA), Chief of Plastic Surgery at St. John’s Health Center in Santa Monica, California, and is board certified by the American Board of Plastic Surgery.

Medscape: Today we’re talking about plastic and cosmetic surgery in teens. Could you start by describing the main types of plastic surgery preformed?

Dr. McGuire: There are 2 basic reasons for performing plastic surgery in children and teens. The first, reconstructive surgery, is aimed at repairing defects that impair normal function. The other, cosmetic surgery, has more to do with improving confidence and self-esteem. We also perform reconstructive plastic surgery in newborns — for example, cleft lip and repairs of various severe birth defects.

Medscape: The popularity of cosmetic surgery in teens is increasing. Why is that?

Dr. McGuire: Plastic surgery is becoming more acceptable in the population in general. More teenagers are having it done. Parents are more accepting of it and are more sensitive to the role that appearance plays in self-image and confidence in teens.

Medscape: Which cosmetic procedures are the most popular?

Dr. McGuire: In the younger middle teenage years, the most common surgical procedure in both young women and men is rhinoplasty. Nasal surgery should be performed after the nose is fully grown, which is generally about age 14 in girls and 15 in boys.

Medscape: Which other procedures are common in teens?

Dr. McGuire: Breast reduction is relatively common. Some young girls develop overly large breasts, hypertrophy, at a young age. This procedure is also increasingly common in boys too (gynecomastia), with over 14,000 operations performed on boys aged 13-19 in 2008. On the other hand, some young women want breast enlargement because they want to have normal-sized breasts that are harmonious with their body. Then there are young women whose breasts grow to be noticeably different sizes, and so surgery is done to make the 2 sides equal.

Otoplasty (ear surgery) is a common procedure for kids around 6 years of age who are teased mercilessly by their peers.

Medscape: Surgery is a permanent thing; are teens mature enough to really understand that?

Dr. McGuire: In some cases, yes, and in some cases, no. It’s not only about their chronologic age but also their emotional age. Some teens are very emotionally mature, whereas some 25-year-olds are not. If a teen is emotionally mature and presents himself or herself as understanding what’s involved, why they’re doing this, and has realistic expectations, then it’s appropriate. But if a 12-year-old comes in wanting rhinoplasty and is unusually emotionally mature, it would still be inappropriate to do the surgery because her nose has not grown fully.

Medscape: Do teens really understand the permanence of procedures?

Dr. McGuire: There is the permanence of a procedure plus the risks of the surgery and having realistic expectations. It all has to be discussed carefully. One job of plastic surgeons is to detect unrealistic expectations.

Medscape: Are there guidelines or instruments available to help plastic surgeons with the psychological assessment of patients?

Dr. McGuire: It’s something that you learn during residency while watching your mentors evaluate patients. When you evaluate a patient, it’s not just the physical examination; it’s also an assessment of patients’ emotional and mental health and stability. Plus, the consultation is a 2-way street: The patient assesses the surgeon to determine whether the surgeon is competent, caring, and appropriate for them, and the surgeon assesses the patient for appropriateness for the surgery.

Medscape: If one surgeon decides that a teenager is not appropriate for surgery, can’t that patient just keep shopping around until she finds a surgeon that will do the job?

Dr. McGuire: Absolutely. When you have a patient who isn’t appropriate for surgery you don’t say, “Get out of here, you’re nuts,” or “You’re not appropriate.” Surgeons are obliged to do an educational session with that patient to explain why this is either not the right time or they’re not a good candidate. It’s a matter of educating the patient and cautioning them not to go to unscrupulous, untrained people who call themselves plastic surgeons who would perform the procedure anyway. Patients should look for an ASPS-member surgeon who is board certified in plastic surgery.

Medscape: Are surgeons actually taking the time to talk to young patients?

Dr. McGuire: If they’re not, they shouldn’t be doing surgery. There is much more to surgery than making incisions. You’ll get into all kinds of problems if you don’t properly evaluate the patient ahead of time. Patients should note that the so-called “free” consults with a nurse are not adequate; the surgeon must be involved.

Medscape: Should the number or type of cosmetic procedures that are available to teens be limited?

Dr. McGuire: Some types of procedures simply are not appropriate. For instance, we generally don’t perform breast implants until at least 18 years of age, and silicone implants can’t be done until patients are age 22. It’s unusual to perform breast reduction before age 15. An exception may be made for young patients with dramatically uneven breast development.

There are several procedures that are increasingly performed on teens. For example, liposuction in teenagers is discouraged, but some patients have specific medical conditions that make it appropriate. Obviously, it shouldn’t be done until nonsurgical approaches have been tried.

You should never do surgery — at any age or in any patient — unless the benefits outweigh the risks and the improvement that’s possible is greater than the costs and risks of surgery.

Medscape: This sounds like general guidelines. Are they enforced by any of the Colleges or other agencies?

Dr. McGuire: There are guidelines on the ASPS Website. However, there are no legal restrictions on performing cosmetic surgery on teens. If a plastic surgeon is doing breast implants on 14-year-olds, this should come to the attention of the national society and be subject to investigation, and potentially be considered unethical conduct.

Medscape: Should there be legal limits?

Dr. McGuire: There’s no legal prohibition, and that’s partly because there are often special circumstances. You don’t want a blanket statement. There are cases in which procedures are medically appropriate; you don’t want to be too restrictive.

Medscape: Australia recently passed legislation restricting cosmetic procedures in kids and teens. What do you think of that?

Dr. McGuire: It’s appropriate as long as it’s appropriately worded and unusual circumstances and exceptions are accounted for. That’s tough to do in legislation. Generally, it’s best handled within the specialty.

Medscape: Do teens ever have regrets about their cosmetic surgery in later years? Has anybody studied that?

Dr. McGuire: I’m not aware of any studies. There is always a small percentage of patients, at any age, who have some regrets. That’s why doctors need to try to evaluate “How are you going to feel about this in 2 or 3 years?” and not just “What do you want today?”

Medscape: Do you have any general tips or messages for surgeons on this topic of teens and kids?

Dr. McGuire: Approach teen cases with even greater concern than adults. Consider not only the age and the physical condition but the emotional maturity and mental stability of the teen, more so than in older patients. If it’s clearly an appropriate problem in an appropriate patient with appropriate emotional stability, the results can be more dramatic than in an adult, simply because the whole image issue in teens is much greater than it is in adults.

From Medscape Plastic Surgery & Aesthetic Medicine

Save Time Without Scrimping On Beauty!

Save time on your beauty regime without compromising on yourself! Try these tips from Good Housekeeping Magazine!

1. You Want: Smooth, Even Skin

Skip the heavy foundation. “In summer your face already has a nice dewiness,” says Gretchen Monahan, style expert on TV’s Bravo Channel andRachael Ray Show. To lighten up, blend equal parts face lotion and foundation in the palm of one hand, then press both palms together and apply the mixture like moisturizer. Get even better staying power by combining base one-to-one with water-resistant sunscreen. “The viscosity ensures it won’t slip off,” says Monahan. We like La Roche-Posay Anthelios 60 Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid ($27.50, drugstores), a water-resistant matte formula with broad-spectrum protection.

2. You Want: Melt-Proof Makeup

Opt for feather-light formulations (the less makeup you put on, the less you have to worry about it sliding around). “In steamy weather, you’ll sweat through most makeup, even powders,” says Meredith Baraf, a makeup artist for Victoria’s Secret. Her advice: Switch to tinted moisturizer, or simply disguise any discoloration with a concealer or stick foundation. Try Prescriptives AnyWear Multi-Purpose Makeup Stick SPF 15 ($35, department stores) — it comes with two minis you can keep handy in your purse and desk. To enhance lashes without smudges, use waterproof mascara, or try Clarins Double Fix’ Mascara Waterproofing Seal ($21, department stores), which forms a clear, watertight seal over your favorite brand. If you’re fair or just a low-maintenance gal, lash tints safely darken eyelashes for up to four days, even through showers and swims. (However, they won’t add volume or length.) Try Tarte 4 Day Stay Lash Stain ($18, Sephora). On lips, try a sheer stain, such as CoverGirl Outlast Lipstain ($7.29, drugstores). Dab away excess shine with blotting paper or a tissue. “Face powder can look cakey on sweaty skin,” says Nicky Kinnaird, founder of Space NK beauty shops in the U.S. and England.

3. You Want: To Fake a Tan — Fast

Brush on a believable shade of bronze. “Pick a color within a couple of shades of your skin tone,” says celebrity makeup artist Mally Roncal. If you’re fair, try a tan shade with peach tones like Physicians Formula Bronze Booster Pressed Bronzer in Fair to Light ($15, drugstores), which has vitamins and moisturizers designed to enhance your color. If you’re medium-toned, go for caramels like Victoria’s Secret VS Liquid Bronzing Brush in Light to Medium ($22, Victoria’s Secret), a gel bronzer with a built-in brush. For already-tanned or brown skin, choose a deeper bronze: Lorac Tantalizer Baked Matte Satin Bronzer SPF 15 ($28, Sephora) can be applied wet or dry, depending on the color intensity you’re after. “Use a big, fluffy brush to apply the color around the perimeter of your face, then work it in toward the center,” says Roncal, who recommends adding a touch of blush on cheeks.

4. You Want: A Better Way to Tame Your Frizzy Hair

Silicone serums are the gold standard for reducing frizz, but they can weigh hair down and make it greasy. Living Proof No Frizz ($24; Sephora) claims to prevent humidity from penetrating the hair, via a lightweight, moisture-repelling, friction-reducing molecule (PolyfluoroEster) that was developed by an MIT professor and his team of scientists and hair experts. To see if it works, the Good Housekeeping Research Institute tested it against the leading frizz serum. In the lab, frizz-prone women applied one of six Living Proof products (each is for a different hair type and straightening or curl-defining effect) to half their wet hair and the control product to the other half, then styled as usual. They then spent 20 minutes in a climatology chamber set to 80 degrees and 80 percent relative humidity. The volunteers also used the frizz product at home as their sole styler for one week. The results: In the lab, the Living Proof products tamed frizz better than the control for half the testers, and at least as well for all but one of the rest. Over half the women also said Living Proof prevented frizz and improved the look and feel of their hair more than their current product. The highest marks came from volunteers who wanted to maintain their waves.

5. You Want: Sun-Kissed Strands

Shampoo your way to beachy-blond highlights: John Frieda Sheer Blonde Go Blonder Lightening Shampoo and Conditioner ($9 each, drugstores) both contain lactic acid to gradually brighten natural and color-treated blond strands without ammonia or peroxide, the traditional bleaching agents. You should notice a change after about two weeks of daily use, though you can keep using the products until you reach your desired shade. Two caveats: You’ll see a difference only on hair that’s already in the blond family, and you should skip it if your hair is prone to dryness, because lactic acid can further dehydrate it, according to New York City trichologist Philip Kingsley.

6. You Want: Sandal-Ready Feet

Try this express “spa” pedicure: Shape uneven nails by filing them straight across the tops, then smooth feet with a mixture of salt and lotion or olive oil — or try Barielle 60 Second Mani-Pedi ($25, barielle.com), an exfoliating treatment combining hydrating oils and Dead Sea salts that smells like a day at the beach. Rinse and dry thoroughly (push back cuticles with the towel as you dry). To get out the door faster, use shimmer polish; any mistakes won’t be quite as obvious, and the mica in shimmer adheres better, says CND cofounder Jan Arnold. Try N.Y.C. In a New York Color Minute Quick Dry Nail Polish in Bryant Park ($2, drugstores).Originally published on May 13, 2009 Related content on goodhousekeeping.comGet Ready for Summer Outsmart the Sun See the 5 Best Hairstyles of All Time Get a Virtual Makeover Find Makeup That Does MoreTry this express “spa” pedicure: Shape uneven nails by filing them straight across the tops, then smooth feet with a mixture of salt and lotion or olive oil — or try Barielle 60 Second Mani-Pedi ($25, barielle.com), an exfoliating treatment combining hydrating oils and Dead Sea salts that smells like a day at the beach. Rinse and dry thoroughly (push back cuticles with the towel as you dry). To get out the door faster, use shimmer polish; any mistakes won’t be quite as obvious, and the mica in shimmer adheres better, says CND cofounder Jan Arnold. Try N.Y.C. In a New York Color Minute Quick Dry Nail Polish in Bryant Park ($2, drugstores).

Originally published on May 13, 2009

All About Lasers

Back in the ’90s, blasting wrinkles meant horror-flick-like oozing and months of redness as “ablative” lasers burned off the skin’s surface and a younger-looking version grew in.

Not so with the new generation of smarter lasers, which target the hallmarks of aging—creases, brown spots, broken capillaries, sagginess—without destroying the skin you’ve got. The result? Faster healing, so you can get back in makeup and return to work with smoother skin in as little as 24 hours. Still, any searing laser beam has the potential to scar or damage pigment (especially for women of color), so treatments are best left to an M.D., who can adjust the intensity to work with your skin tone. And sun-worshippers beware: Because many lasers target pigment, give the beach a four- to six-week break before your first session. Here, a laser-by-laser guide to the treatments that’ll suit your trouble spots, budget, and schedule.

THE TREATMENT: Nonablative (i.e., surface skin is left intact) Fractional Resurfacing

WHAT IT’S FOR: Smoothing fine-to-moderate lines, evening out brown spots, and improving overall glow with quick weekend recovery. (It’s often referred to as “Fraxel,” the brand that debuted the device in 2004.)

HOW IT WORKS: Heat generated by the laser penetrates deep into the skin and stimulates collagen production without annihilating your epidermis (translation: no oozing or rawness). It’s typically performed over a course of three to five 25-minute treatments, one to two months apart, under topical anesthesia. And it’s safer for ethnic skin types than ablative lasers, but even women as light in tone as Lucy Liu should proceed with extra caution (your doctor can calibrate the laser at a lower intensity to minimize risks, but you may need extra sessions).

HOW IT FEELS: Less painful than ablative procedures, these treatments give the sensation of heat rather than pins and needles. Feels like a bad sunburn for about 10 minutes post-procedure; afterward, skin is pink and sandpapery for three to five days but can be camouflaged with concealer.

PRICE: $600 to $1200 per treatment

THE TREATMENT: Ablative (i.e., skin-wounding) Fractional Resurfacing

WHAT IT’S FOR: Smoothing fine-to-deep lines and evening out brown spots in a single treatment. Can also help tighten lax skin and carpet bomb broken capillaries if they fall in the laser’s direct path.

HOW IT WORKS: The laser beam strikes the skin in thousands of places, destroying tissue a millimeter deep in those microscopic spots only (think perforated paper). Surrounding skin remains intact, allowing for faster recovery than the original ablative devices but more intense results than the nonablative fractional laser. The hole-punching fires up the body’s wound-healing response, which generates collagen and smooths wrinkles. It’s ablative and therefore riskier for women of color, but can be executed successfully at a doctor’s discretion.

HOW IT FEELS: Generally performed with local anesthesia similar to what you’d get in a dentist’s office. After 15 minutes of post-treatment discomfort and an application of ice packs, pain is minimal. For 24 to 36 hours, skin oozes and bleeds (just as pretty as it sounds), followed by five days of crustiness. Once crust peels, new, pink skin emerges and makeup can be worn; complete healing within two weeks. (FYI, this laser comes in three varieties: CO₂, Erbium, and YSGG. CO₂ is harshest, while YSGG offers the quickest, easiest recovery.)

PRICE: $1500 to $5000

THE TREATMENT: Ablative Carbon Dioxide Resurfacing (i.e., the original ’90s procedure)

WHAT IT’S FOR: Still the most aggressive fix for hard-core lines and acne scars; can also tighten loose skin but is safe only for fair skin types (olive tones and women of color risk permanent pigment loss).

HOW IT WORKS: By blasting away the skin’s top layer, this aggressive single treatment bulldozes wrinkles.

HOW IT FEELS: During, like needles across the face (it’s sometimes performed under general anesthesia). Recovery-wise, think burn victim on day one as open wounds ooze and bleed, followed by five to 10 days of rawness while your obliterated epidermis regenerates (sorry, no makeup for up to two weeks). Overall pinkness persists for two to four months.

PRICE: Approximately $4000 to $8000, depending on size of area treated

THE TREATMENT: Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)

WHAT IT’S FOR: Eliminating brown spots and other sun-induced discoloration and spot-treating broken capillaries. When performed with nonablative fractional treatments, can amplify skin-tone-evening benefits–but it has no effect on wrinkles.

HOW IT WORKS: While not a “laser” per se, IPL devices work similarly. Short pulses of bright white light pinpoint brown pigment cells and redness, which are damaged when they absorb the light and the heat it creates. Safe for most skin types, but a doctor may dial down intensity for darker skin tones to avoid slim risk of de-pigmentation.

HOW IT FEELS: Sunburn-like. Patients experience slight swelling and pinkness the day of the procedure, but there’s no downtime, which is why it’s often categorized as a “lunchtime” treatment.

PRICE: $400 to $600 per treatment.

Originally published on May 21, 2009, Feature from “Marie Claire”

The Nonsurgical Nose Job

Wish your nose could be different? Smoothen out irregularities? Correcting an downturned nose? There are some ways that a doctor can improve the appearance without you having to go under the knife.

Currently, there is a trend towards using injectable fillers to correct nasal features. For contour irregularities, hyaluronic acid fillers like Restylane, Juvederm, Perlane and Radiesse are most frequently used for injectable nose jobs to smoothen out irregularities.

Botox injections can also be given to relax the facial muscle that pulls the tip of your nose downward to create a more upturned appearance.

Injections can also be given around the nose, to soften the lines around the nose, giving an appearance of a younger looking nose.

However, its best to discuss with your doctor whether your nose is suitable for corrections by using injectables, and which injectables to most suitable for use taking into account your skin features and thickness. For example, Radiesse is injected deeper to fix contour irregularities, while the hyaluronic acids are great for fine creases at the bridge. Also, if it’s your first nonsurgical nose job, your doctor will probably recommend a hyaluronic acid filler since it can be dissolved with an injection of hyaluronidase if you don’t like the results. Radiesse lasts longer, but it costs more, so your budget may also help determine which filler is used.

Previous related posts:

• Perfect Facial Proportions: The Nose
• Aging Effects On The Nose

Aging Effects On The Nose

The nose, as with the rest of the face and skin, is also susceptible to the aging process. Commonly, changes to the nose include drooping of the tip of the nose, contour irregularities, lengthening of the nose, a decreased nasolabial angle, narrowing of the nasal valve, and obstructed nasal breathing.

Drooping of the nasal tip is the one most precalent and distinctive features of an aging nose. It is caused by the weakening of the lower cartilage of the nose, and other supporting structures in the nose. Sometimes, the drooping tip may result in a illusion of a hump on the nose, and perceived septum prominence which is not physically present. Some ways a doctor may help correct the drooping is by using strut grafts in the columella, tip grafts, and various stitching techniques to increase tip support, projection, rotation and correction of contour deformities.

Nasal valve obstruction is common in the elderly, and it’s surprisingly under-recognized as a factor which is important in improving the quality of life. The weakening of the nsasal cartilages and the surrounding support mechanisms can cause collapse of the nasal valves resulting in nasal obstruction, worsened at rest or on breathing in. Surgery may be necessary to correct the problem.

As you age, the nasal bones also thin out and become fragile, making you more susceptible to nose fractures and trauma. The overlying skin also thins out, leading to greater visibility of  even minor contour and tip irregularities previously concealed by the thicker nasal skin of youth.

Find out what a non surgical nose job can do for you in my next post!

Perfect Facial Proportions: The Nose

The nose is in the middle of the face, and many people are conscious of its position and appearance. Many times we hear people commenting on the type or size of noses another individual has. Some different descriptions of noses we hear are those of:

The Roman or Aquiline Nose: This type of nose is convex in shape, like a hook. It is also known as ‘hooknose’ because of its shape. The word aquiline is derived from the Latin word ‘aquilinus’ which means ‘eagle like’.

The Greek or Straight Nose. This type of nose is perfectly straight with no curves or hooked like shape. It is known as Greek nose because it is generally noticed that the Greek people have this kind of nose.

The Nubian Nose: This type of nose has wide nostrils. It is generally a little narrow at the top, thick and broad at the middle and wide at the end. The term ‘Nubian’ comes from the ethnic group ‘Nubians’ who belong to northern Sudan.

The Hawk Nose: The hawk nose is so called because it is very convex, to the extent that it almost looks like a bow. It is very thin and sharp as well. Since it resembles the beak of a Hawk, it is known as the hawk nose.

Snub Nose: This type of nose is quite short in length and is neither sharp, nor hook like nor wide. It is almost as short as a nose possibly can be. Hence, it is known as snub nose

The turn up Nose: This type of nose is also called as the Celestial nose. It is so called because it runs continuously from the eyes towards the tip.

Like all other features of the face, there are guidelines and measurements that allows the nose to be viewed as more aesthetically pleasing. Here are the proportions for the ‘ideal’ nose:

• The ideal nasal length should be equal the distance from the stomion (the middle point of the oral slit when the lips are closed) to the menton (the lowermost point of the chin when seen in profile).
• The ideal nose tip projection should be equal to 0.66 x ideal nasal length.
• The distance from the infraorbital rim (lower bony edge of the eye socket) to the base of the nose is equal to the width of the base of the nose, and is half the length of the middle third of the face (ie, the distance between the brow to the base of the nose)
• The nose is straight by following a line falling from the midglabellar area (point between the brows), the nasal bridge, the nasal tip and the Cupid’s Bow of the lips.
• The width of the alar base (where the flare of the nose joins the cheek) should be equal to one eye width.
• The width of the bony base of the nose should be 80% of the alar width.
• The alar rims should have a slight outward flare in the inferior direction.
• The lines connecting the tip defining points (the most projecting area on each side of the nose tip), the supratip break area (the depression just above the tip), and the columellar lobular angle (angle formed by the junction of the infra-tip lobule with the columella) form 2 equilateral triangles.
• A line outlining the alar rims and the columella (the skin separating the nostrils) resemble a gull in gentle flight
• From the front, the nasofrontal angle (angle of demarcation between forehead and nasal dorsum, best seen in profile) lies at  a level between the upper eyelashes and the supratarsal crease.
• In women, the nasal dorsum should lie 2mm behind and parallel to a line from just above the nasofrontal angle to the tip defining points. In men, the dorsum should be slightly higher.
• 50-60% of the tip should lie in front of a vertical line drawn adjacent to the most projecting portion of a normally positioned upper lip.
• The tip projection should be equivalent to the alar base width.
• The tip rotation is determined by the degree of the nasolabial angle, as measured by the angle between the vertical and a line drawn through the most anterior and posterior edges of the nostrils (normally 95-100° in women and 90-95° in men.
• The columellar lobular angle is approximately 45°.
• On the basal view, the outline of the nasal base forms an equilateral triangle, the lobular to nostril ratio is 1:2.
• The upper lip projects 2mm more than the lower lip, and in women, the chin lies slightly posterior to the lower lip, slightly stronger in men.
• The distance from the angle of the jaw to the menton is half the distance from the menton to the natural hairline.

As always, these are just guidelines, but the final appearance and modifications should be worked through with a qualified plastic surgeon.

Eager to find out what aging does to your nose? Check out the upcoming post!

Where To Find Vintage Online

I have this awesome Chinese cut red dress. The tag says it’s a size 14 but it’s form fitting if you’re a sexy eight. But you know back during the 40s sizes were just different. There was a war going on then, you know. I wasn’t there. I heard about it from my grandma, the original owner of the dress.

In any case, in the event that you don’t have a grandmother who stock piles everything that she and her children have owned since BIRTH you might need a place to fill your vintage needs. Because vintage clothes are awesome and pretty and everyone needs some.

Fortunately, the internet is there for you:

1) Mod Cloth

This is a fun little boutique featuring everything from dresses to shoes. You don’t see many retailers sporting vintage shoes, so this is a rare find. Or maybe I just love shoes. Too much. Anyways, they also carry a wealth of accessories to augment your perfect retro look whether it be 40’s swing or 60’s flower child.

And they’re giving it all to you for 15% off until August 8th!Just shop your vintage little heart out, put it all in your “basket,” thenenter the super special code (ModCandy 15) at checkout! That’s it. 15% off some of the cutest vintage-inspired goods on the web.

2) Newport News

Didn’t expect to see this site on the list, huh? Well here’s the thing, you find the greatest treasures off the beaten path. Although there’s nothing vintage about their clothes, their shoe selection has some fantastic vintage-inspired finds. Nestled in between all the smart shoes for work there are a few hidden gems. Look towards the boot section and pumps.

3) ChinaTowner

Another clothing site filled to the brim with great clothes. The site actually caters to many different styles. There are quite a few vintage inspired dresses and tops among the ranks as well as some really cute jackets and blazers. It’s summer now so you can catch a few good deals on the winter stock.

4) Baby Girl Boutique

This site is quite a bit more pricier than the others listed here but well worth it. They carry dresses and shoes centering around the Pin Up look. Got curves? Then try this place. Nothing looks sexier on a girl with curves than a cute dress and a pair of killer pumps. Channel your inner Monroe on this site.

5) Red Dress Shoppe

This is a site much like Baby Girl but a little more cost friendly. The selection isn’t as big, but what they do have is stellar. They spotlight mostly the 40s and 50s in their clothes, but there are few 60 surprises mixed in there as well. Where this site really shines is the price. Even the full price items are pretty low on the cost scale so you can build a wardrobe with a bulk of these items and pick up a few pricier items from one of the other shops.

6) Antidote Clothing

I love this site. Simply because it has EVERYTHING. I could spend hours browsing through pages of clothes and still find something new everyday. They have clothing inspired by the 20’s onward. The site itself is a little all over the place but fairly simple to navigate.

7) Pinup Girl Clothing

At first glance you would think that it’s all waist cinching dresses and five inch heels. But that’s only the first glance. This site also carries the cutest mini dresses. Sure we all want to be Bettie Page, but sometimes we want to be Twiggy too. And this site lets you do it.

8 ) Phix Clothing

Much like VH1, I love the 80’s and you know you do too. Cyndi Lauper was so hot. I’m not ashamed to admit my love of 80’s pop icons! Bright colors and a sea of ruffles. Stockings, leg warmers, the whole nine. This site has it all.

9) The Vintage Vault

It’s all fine and dandy to have vintage inspired clothes, but nothing sets you apart from the crowd like real vintage wear. And its not always expensive. Take this site, for example; the prices are reasonable and the selection is good. Pick up a few items to add an authentic feel to your wardrobe.

No matter what decade you’re channeling there’s an online store out there for you. No need to deal with the scents and sounds of the local Salvation Army – you can get your vintage fix from the comforts of your very own desk (or bathroom, if that’s how you roll).

Taken from CollegeCandy.com:

Topical Botox Shows Effectiveness In Treatment Of Crows Feet

NEW YORK – A topical, noninjectable form of botulinum toxin asserted its ability to effectively treat crow’s feet through impressive data from a recently completed phase II clinical trial released here.

Seventy-five patients at four study sites were treated with the novel topical toxin or placebo to the crow’s feet area. On a four-point static scale, a significant number of participants showed two point moves, according to Michael Kane, M.D., a principal investigator in the trial who released aggregate data from the study at the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery annual meeting.

“As one of the study centers, I was not unblinded as to which of my patients had toxin and which were [treated with] placebo. But, clearly, by looking at the patients, there were those whose crow’s feet got a lot better and some whose didn’t,” Dr. Kane, a plastic surgeon in private practice in New York City, tells Cosmetic Surgery Times. “The difference was night and day, both at rest and smiling. The people who showed significant difference, unsurprisingly, had lateral brow elevation, as well. Obviously, the toxin was working on the muscle.”

TRANSDUCTION TRANSFORMATION

The concept of simply applying a topical to eliminate wrinkles is not new, but proving the theory has yet to be conclusively accomplished. Yet, researchers involved with the development of the topical form of botulinum toxin think they are close. Its developers at Revance Therapeutics, Inc., a privately held company based in Mountain View, Calif., claim that the topical allows large macromolecules to cross the skin and other barrier membranes enabling local, targeted delivery. Delivered through the firm’s proprietary TransMTS™ (Macromolecule Transport Technology), the neurotoxin is based on a single, straight-chain, peptide that allows skin to be a gateway for drug delivery, rather than a barrier.

“Adding a peptide as a separate component within the [toxin] formulation allows the toxin to cross the skin,” explains Jacob Waugh, M.D., co-founder & chief scientific officer, Revance. “The peptide forms an ionic bond with the toxin and the peptide also has a Protein Transduction Domain (PTD), which is responsible for transcutaneous flux. It is essentially a quite broad and powerful transduction.”

Although the topical toxin’s technology is fairly obscure and complex, the use of two pathways on both the dead and living layers of the skin allows for a significant result, according to Dr. Waugh. Currently, there have been 600 crow’s feet areas treated via the TransMTS™ technology, with a fairly low local irritation rate and no evidence of adjacent paralysis above placebo grade, say the developers.

“TransMTS technology relies on the fluidity of the dead skin, that essentially is the equivalency of the typical topical that loads the stratum corneum, but more interesting is the second pathway that [also] happens on the living cells,” Dr. Waugh details.

“Basically, it’s a variation the cell uses to take a drink, then it dumps the drink back out on the other side of the cell.”

The key to TransMTS technology, say its developers, is a protein carrier featuring protein transduction domains that hold on to the cell membrane and allow larger molecules to pass through it undisturbed. The transport technology is also currently being studied for early applications of new cardiovascular disease drugs. Additionally, three different cancer drug trials are being investigated based on the system’s ability to transport molecules, according to the firm.

ADVANTAGE: EYE

While TransMTS technology may benefit additional medical innovations including insulin and other compounds, a phase III trial is underway to establish the neurotoxin adjunct’s effectiveness and advantages when treating crow’s feet. An area greatly sensitive to injections, a topical toxin may be a relief to most patients.

“I don’t think there’s much question regarding [the topical toxin’s] clinical effect for lateral crow’s feet,” says Richard Glogau, M.D., clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California and participant in the phase II clinical trial. “Yet, they [will need to] keep continuing to improve the formulation due to a delivery problem with the gel vehicle,” he adds.

The gel that allows the combination of the peptide and the toxin to get through the skin and the mechanics of using the gel present challenges in terms of getting it to stay where it is applied, according to Dr. Glogau, who completed a recent study for primary axillary hyperhidrosis with the topical form of botulinum toxin type A.

In that study, researchers used the topical agent to treat 12 patients in a randomized, blinded, vehicle-controlled study that also showed promising results: A 65 percent mean reduction of sweating on 10 axillae treated with the BTX-A (200 U) was observed after four weeks of treatment, compared with a 25 percent mean reduction in sweating on the vehicle controlled axillae. Although the topical toxin displayed its ability to reach the bottom of the dermis when treating hyperhidrosis, the one-time dosage upon which the crow’s feet trials’ results are based may be problematic says one investigator.

“It’s a very artificial situation, and I think that anything in dermatology ends up being a serial treatment — patients are looking for long-term effect,” Dr. Glogau says. “Yet, I think the neurotoxin is realistic in its abilities.”

“My one concern is that the topical toxin will be thought of as just the same as an injectable toxin, but in reality it’s another tool,” Dr. Waugh says. “Yet, it can be used to do some of the things that injectables can’t do.”

REFERENCE

Glogau RG. Topically applied botulinum toxin type A for the treatment of primary axillary hyperhidrosis: results of a randomized, blinded, vehicle-controlled study. Dermatol Surg. 2007;33(1 Spec No.):S76-S80.

DISCLOSURE

Dr. Kane is a paid consultant to Revance Therapeutics with an ownership equity interest comprising stock options whose value is less than $50,000 during the time of the study and for one year following completion of the study. Dr. Kane does not have a proprietary or financial interest in a product, patent, trademark, copyright, or licensing agreement, and has not received significant payments from Revance exclusive of the costs of conducting the clinical study or any financial arrangements whereby the value of the compensation could be influenced by the outcome of the study or tied to sales of the product.

Aug 1, 2009
By: Beth Kapes
Cosmetic Surgery Times

Find Your Favourite Discontinued Cosmetics

Miss the days when you still had your favourite lipstick shade or eyeshadow colour? With cosmetics, every of your favourite hue seems to be just a passing trend. is it possible to get it in your makeup bag again?

Well, don’t despair. There’s still hope of finding that particular product that you love! Read on to find out how to get your hands on that little jar of happiness that you covet.

DIRECT FROM THE MANUFACTURER

Call the makeup brand’s customer-service department to ask about leftover inventory, upgraded formulas/names or comparable substitutes.

* Estée Lauder brands: You can find products discontinued in the last 24 months through the company’s Gone but Not Forgotten program; you can buy up to six pieces, depending on availability. Call 800-216-7173 to start your search.
* Almay, Revlon & Ultima II: You can find discontinued products at cosmeticsandmore.com and their affiliated retail outlets (in Arizona, New York, New Jersey, and North Carolina), or call 888-882-5629 to place an order.
* Lancôme, Molton Brown and Nars: These companies sell discontinued items on their sites—Lancome-usa.com, Moltonbrown.com, and Narscosmetics.com—until inventory runs dry. Some brand sites, including Benefitcosmetics.com, Clinique.com, Lancome-usa.com, and Prescriptives.com—feature online alerts, so customers have fair warning when discontinued goods are disappearing.

ONLINE SHOPPING

If the manufacturer is unable to track down an old fave, here are some other sites worth checking out:

* Discount.makeup.com: This subsidiary of Makeup.com sells discontinued beauty products from many brands, including Shiseido and Bare Escentuals.
* Beautyencounter.com: This site sells hard-to-find products from Max Factor, Neutrogena, Goldwell, Sebastian, KMS, and more.
* Vermontcountrystore.com: Its niche is hard-to-find items, and customer service will track down products for which they get a lot of requests, even if the site doesn’t carry them. When an item is no longer manufactured and demand is sufficient, the site buys an original formula and reproduces.
* Threecustom.com: The go-to place for celebrity makeup artists, Three Custom Color specialists can replicate the exact shade and texture of just about any color cosmetic product, including blush, eyeshadow, lipstick, concealer, and foundation. The company has an archive of 9,000 makeup shades dating back to the 1930s, and it will duplicate a hue if you send a dime-size sample.

DON’T FORGET THESE
Tip #3 Still no luck? Here are other places to do makeup research:

* Ebay.com, Amazon.com and Overstock.com: These sites can list discontinued products. Since the goods offered can come from third parties, there’s the risk that a product is old or wasn’t stored or shipped properly, so read the fine print carefully regarding any return policy before ordering.
* Makeupalley.com: You can find in-depth information on tons of products, including discontinued ones, at this social community of beauty-product consumers. You can post a product request on the Swap Board; if another member owns the item, you can negotiate a trade.
* The Fragrance Foundation: For detailed information on just about any fragrance that’s ever existed, go to fragrancefoundation.org and click on Fragrance Directory.

Safety Alert: Your instinct might be to hoard when you find an old beauty favorite but remember that many cosmetics go bad fast once opened. Unopened beauty products and fragrances can last for several years if they are stored properly (in a dark, cool place). The exception is products with an expiration date, such as some acne products and sunscreens, as these have ingredients that might be compromised over time.